“Matthew M. Williams observes in the spirit of the times a re-contextualisation of the archetypes of smartness: a reset perception of the well-tailored silhouette devoid of the preordained virtues of the past.” Inside the courtyard of Hotel National des Invalides a soundtrack created by Williams set the scene for a reworking of classical tropes. Modernist and minimalist, the opening tailored looks gave us an outline: relaxed, broad shoulders, elongated shapes and voluminous trousers that pooled delicately to the floor. It’s a silhouette that Williams has made his own. Then the designer began riffing, adding hoodies, bomber jackets, backpacks and raincoats. In ties, shirting and overcoats, models appeared like fresh interns dressed to take over the company in a matter of weeks.

Look by look, Williams added, subtracted, sliced and manipulated garments, flexing his design credentials and offering an intelligent insight into the art of creating a collection. The theme of school uniform was alluded to in the show notes, that archetypal idea of smart dressing we all recognise – which we first rebel against, but later embrace. If we knew about Williams’ Givenchy then, we wouldn’t have received so many goddamn uniform detentions! Signature buckle belts signalled a more utilitarian bent, as did workwear pants, cinched chinos, vests and cropped MA-1 bombers. Bags in all different sizes hung from models, wrapped around waists and delicately balanced to one side. Post-show, Williams described how he enjoyed the idea of bags and shoes defining the silhouette, creating new scale, proportion and shape.

The final section of the collection played with ideas of eveningwear. Double-breasted silk-wool blazers had their back seams removed for a relaxed fit and were fitted with magnet closures, their square shoulders held by hand-carved pads, while waistcoats and trousers combined seamlessly, mirroring an elegant jumpsuit silhouette. Throughout this season, there’s a theme of redefining formalwear: this upcoming generation isn’t afraid to pull on a tie, blazer and tuck their shirt in, they just make it cool – Matthew M. Williams is the king of this.