Twisted classicism

Matthew M. Williams redefined Givenchy elegance
By Alex James Taylor | Fashion | 3 March 2023

A pristine white box, landed in the middle of a military field. Inside, a white room with white banks of seats. The Givenchy showspace appeared like a spacecraft from another dimension. If we’re about to be beamed up, let us first down our Givenchy-branded ginger shot. OK – go for it.

Ambient notes vibrated around the room, and our new leaders emerged. In contrast with the white surroundings, the opening all-black tailored looks cut sharp silhouettes: a study of rigour and elegance. Strong shoulders, clean lines. From this, Williams riffed. Moments of classicism – cinched waists and dramatic ballroom shapes – met contemporary as buckled fabric hung from trousers like bondage pants alongside thick rollnecks, zip skirts and mixed-media bombers. Elsewhere layers of distressed jersey and leather overlapped in nomadic fashion, reimagining an evening silhouette. Pops of vibrant colour punctuated the collection as bursts of vibrant energy, and sheer fabrics danced around the body. Referencing archive prints, fish graphics swam across dresses, possibly towards a stunning diamante dress that resembled shimmering waters. Or maybe (more ominously) towards those exquisite netted tops crafted from iridescent pearls.

Shapes shifted, morphed and sloped into easeful, yet confident, sophisticated silhouettes rendered in the most luxurious couture fabrications. As read the show notes, this season was “a demonstration of the codes that seduce a modern-day wardrobe mentality: a proposition expressed in confidence, comfort and empowerment.”





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