When Matthew M. Williams was appointed as Clare Waight Keller’s successor in 2021, he quickly outlined his vision to “move it into a new era, based on modernity and inclusivity” – and the designer has since ushered the brand into a direction where silhouette reigns supreme. This season, stripped-back suiting created in the haute couture atelier was a central focal point — black turtlenecks teamed with concealed-closure jackets and darted trousers, finished with suede boots and evening gloves to offer a take on formalwear that was as clean as it was colourless. 

On the other end of the spectrum, metallic flight suits in slick bronze and golden green offered a uniform look of a different nature, with workwear codes at the core. Boiler suits-turned-trousers peeled off at the waist in faux snake print and bubblegum pink, as in-your-face fur jackets made their presence known — from a hooded cheetah-print style to a longline coat with oversized lapels that look fit for a Beowulf-style saga. The venue – a minimalist “optical white box” – pulsed to an ethereal soundtrack composed and recorded specially for the show by British musician Bakar.

Spray-painted cracked leather was rendered into a waistcoat, boiler suit and shearling-lined hoodie, showing Williams’ fearless approach to reconfiguring relaxed styles in adventurous fabrics. Unconventional layering came to the fore — whether a longline hoodie paired with refined slacks or a plaid shirt hanging over distressed camo-print jeans. A vivid collage of shapes and textures, Williams’ collection signalled a rebellious take on contemporary menswear, where traditional tropes are respected but retuned.