Red Sky At Night

Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo debut was sex, sunsets and New Hollywood glamour
By Bailey Slater | Fashion | 26 September 2022

Legacy is Maximilian Davis’ MO at Ferragamo. When the Mancunian-Trinidadian designer was appointed creative director of the brand back in March, he spoke of an affinity for its codes of traditional Italian craftsmanship, of building on a rich and profound heritage that spans 95 years, but also innovating such history in keeping with the modern world.

For his debut collection, the designer spoke about wanting to “pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood – but new Hollywood,” enamoured by both its ease and sensuality, “its sunset and sunrise.” This meant glamour was on the menu, and in spade loads too, starting with camel-toned formalwear, second-skin duster coats and their huge cuffs that matched nip-waisted blazers and slouchy trousers. It meant welt-pocketed miniskirts, wrap jackets and jet-black holdall bags in squeaky patent leather.

Leather hotpants destined for a cruise down the Christopher Street Pier in 80s New York came next, dripping with sexual subtlety, then, bold mock-morph suits, their defined red details highlighting the curves of waistlines and trouser legs. Amongst this show of glamorous gowns and their billowing capes, of spliced open bodices and rhinestoned mesh, Davis also dipped his toes into sportswear; in drawstring pouches draped across the body and baggy toggle fastenings on lightweight climbing gear. And what of the tit-slit hoodies, melting from red to black, the simple white crop tops, or sheer asymmetric tanktops, bleeding from orange to red to blue as they nod to the rich sky-bleeds of Rachel Harrison’s Sunset Series? These are symbols of a new dawn, Davis’ new dawn, and it’s looking bright.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Salvatore Ferragamo WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-23