It is difficult not to consider Olly Shinder the next big name on the London schedule. When he came out for his customary wave at the end of his show at Fashion East this season, it was like a rock star had arrived at the Truman Brewery. The crowds love him and it isn’t hard to see why. His blend of queer club and fetish gear with workwear and uniform is something that genuinely still feels very outré in the London schedule. Even his casting is out there, last season he had fashion journalists take to the runway, this season he had a cast of young men who had, to quote a popular meme, a sadness in their eyes that you only see in Eastern European gay porn.

Many of the silhouettes this season consisted of traditional uniforms, such as a classic grey shirt and trousers, adorned with a leather neckpiece or huge leather wading boots. Elsewhere, leather aprons went from skin tight at the torso to beautiful and flowing at the leg. The final look was a standout, a full boiler suit completely decked out with studs and flags of fabric. It felt like Shinder doing his version of a couture piece.