Designer Marco De Vincenzo paid homage to Etro’s textile factory roots for his debut menswear collection as creative director – finding common ground between the Italian house’s heritage and his own personal past.

The show space in Milan was a recreation of Etro’s fabric warehouse in nearby Como, with guests sitting on shipping pallets set among rolls, tables and rails of samples taken from over 50 years of archives, and rails of fabric samples acting as a backdrop to the runway.

The personal and universal combined, De Vincenzo’s opening look was an oversized Jacquard print overcoat in two-tone yellow, inspired by the designer’s favourite childhood blanket, with its pattern reproduced onto knit and outerwear pieces. From there we were taken through a craftful series of textural plays, aimed to stimulate sight and touch. 3D crochet fruit grew across knitwear as upholstery fabrics were reimagined as blousons, shirting and overalls – evoking domestic tropes and homely comforts. Everything looked soft and tactile – textures you can fall into and never leave.

Tartan returned to the Etro runway described in the show notes as “domestic camouflage”, while rich bursts of colour punctuated throughout, like the two piece fuzzy teddy cast in deep chocolate brown with embroidered canary yellow florals decorating the sleeves, and a crochet oatmeal shirt with an oversized purple 3D knitted flower detail across the chest.