Plaid persuasion

Ermenegildo Zegna SS16
21 June 2015

The Zegna timeline is spotted with innovations in construction and fabric compositions. High-performance fibres, for sporting wear; durability and lightness, for comfort; or the introduction of using wool during the summer – a slightly left of centre concept, but one that Zegna spearheaded.

Stefano Pilati has dipped his hand into the brand’s heritage and produced looks that exemplify these developments, using Lanificio Zegna wools, Double Century Cashmere, silks and cottons. These are lightweight and graceful compositions the mood dominated by a newly envisioned, fresh, delicate perception of contemporary masculinity.

Long coats were loose, with a laid-back fit; diaphanous trousers and shirts gave a softer edge to tailoring; while pops of colour were directed through varying-sized Madras prints – used wholly across a garment, or as inserts – to keep Pilati’s overriding tone of irreverence.

Zegna’s ‘Eco-Leader’ campaign only launched last season, but this continuous approach to sustainability shone through here again. The set for FW15 was a micro forest, one that was replanted at Oasi Zegna, while fibres in the collection were responsibly sourced. Yesterday, accessories are made with eco-sustainable, metal-free leather, and fabrics are overseen by the brand in a meticulous manner. All facets considered. Pilati has a knack for the contemporary vocabulary of menswear, as well as a mind for ecology – a refined and mindful leader.

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show