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The evolution of Ermenegildo Zegna since Stefano Pilato took the reigns three seasons ago has been blink-and-you’ll-miss-it swift, the designer wasting no time in reshaping the brand in tune with the razor sharp sartorial ideals that shape the look of now’s man.
For SS15, the Zegna trajectory ran parallel with this individual’s appreciation of good design: the spaces he inhabits versus the architecture that informs them. Textures and surfaces, splendor and decadence, philosophy and romanticism, masculine and feminine.
All this was apparent in the silhouettes that formed each look. Classic, refined tailoring contrasted with innovations in construction, nipped lapels and quilted nylon fabrications sportifying more traditional cuts. Styling saw technical outerwear tied loosely around waists, quietly relaxing otherwise formal looks.
Print and pattern were also key, taffeta stripes acting as a conduit for the fluidity that ran as a strong undercurrent. If what we saw yesterday was any sort of indication, the Ermenegildo Zegna of the future is no longer a given – it’s a revelation for its audience, established and new.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show