Inviting guests to take their seats in a dishevelled apartment block, Dries Van Noten’s minimalist backdrop mirrored the refined nature of his FW24 offering. A tension of contrasts and juxtapositions, the Belgian designer’s collection found its home in the liminality of space which exists between minimalist and maximalist, elevated and casual, past and present.

Elongated silhouettes were crafted from sweeping long coats and slim trousers, complete with heavy knitted scarves which billowed as models walked. As the colour palette melted from darks to lights, beginning in hues of black and navy and then slowly shifting to corals, sugary pinks and inky blues, the collection switched gears. Heritage fabrics turned into modern military uniforms as slouchy blazers and oversized cargo pants took a new approach to Dries’ tailoring. Fuzzy mohair knitwear added a cosy element to the brand’s utilitarian offering while light-wash denim was fashioned into double-breasted blazers and belted trench coats.

Challenging our idea of perception, garments were given makeovers to fool the untrained eye as sweaters were zipped up or tied in unexpected ways, shoes fit like socks, gloves extended up the arm, shirts were warped as seams twisted around the body and the lyrics to Simple Minds’ Theme for Great Cities were embroidered onto jackets.