A return to craft and the simple joy of dressing has ruled the runways this season and Dries Van Noten is no exception. For FW23, the Belgian designer crafted a collection fit for the intimate moments shared between a garment and its wearer. Borrowing from the past, elements of the old tuned with the new, offering a fresh perspective on how the esteemed house takes on wearability. 

Soundtracked by a solo drummer, the collection meditated on the harmony of contradiction. Antique fabrics were given new life as faded florals merged with technical mesh and hand-drawn silhouettes were fashioned in washed silk alongside precise tailoring. Shoulders were emphasised, waists cinched and trousers elongated, toeing the line between masculinity and femininity to sculpt a powerful form. In a continuation of juxtapositions, rugged English wool in herringbone and pinstripe stood alongside delicate flower motifs and golden embroidery atop corsetry. 

Layering allowed for new depths to be uncovered as reversible coats were seemingly crafted from endless folds of lightweight organza, and flashes of metallic peaked out from double-layered silk shirt collars. Peppered with lace, florals and gilded foiling throughout, this season gave an opulent nod to artistry and the cherished codes of the house – on beat, always.