Fashion
  • Text Kinza Shenn
  • Photography Alfredo Piola
  • 22nd January 2021

Dreamstate

Peter Doig’s paintings are the kind that linger long after you first see them. They’re the flashes of light beneath your eyelids. Intensely meditative, bright and bleared, his works elaborate on reality with a mystical vibrance. Kim Jones requested the Scottish painter to partner on Dior’s FW21 collection – it’s one in a series of seasonal collaborations.

Doig’s Milky Way from ‘89-90 was the centerpiece: a night sky and lake illuminated by a band of cosmic dust. A student at the time, its unusual radiance was inspired by Doig reading Don Delillo’s White Noise, and the figure in the canoe was taken from the horror flick Friday the 13th. These mashups of allusions are characteristic of Doig and the collection carried a similar spirit, glittering with a scattered array of visual ideas.

The garments and artworks were thoughtfully integrated. The fuzzy texture of mohair sweaters accentuated the painterly daze. Coats were illuminated with constellations. Organza shirts wafted with shadowed gestures. The ceremonial military frogging and embellishments, perhaps an homage to Doig’s portrait, Gasthof zur Muldentalsperre.

And while the models walked to some swanky club beats, the collection itself was quieting in its dreamy pull. An indication that the magic of Doig’s work was preserved, if not magnified.