A runway show that never happened: Schrödinger’s Gucci? The images for Demna’s second outing for the Italian house look unmistakably like a runway show – except we’re fairly certain none of us ever attended it. True to form, after debuting his Gucci era via a cast of character portraits and a star-studded short film – directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn and starring Demi Moore and Edward Norton, amongst others – Demna’s sophomore outing conjures an imaginary catwalk suspended between fact and fiction.

Titled Generation Gucci, the collection extends Demna’s “ongoing research into archival and visual codes across different eras of the brand’s history.” In practice, that meant a sharper articulation of last season’s foundational vision. It begins with tailoring – lightweight, archival silk faille suits with an intentionally aged handfeel, and womenswear jackets fastened with sly minimal clasps. Trousers range from legging-tight to wide and louche – plus business-kink cuts and bootcut denim paired with heels. Everything carries that off-centre sexuality Demna is folding into the brand’s own sensual sensibility.

Textures ricochet off one another. Ethereal coats woven in shearling and feathers, slouchy silk pyjama suiting and chiffon gowns meet tracksuits, gym gear, spiked loafers, and leather jackets informed by technical wetsuit lines. A tight black leather catsuit. A pantless post-workout moment. A shimmering draped miniskirt and top combo destined for a good time. House codes tilt and shift: web-striped racer jackets, equestrian-print silks, suede-and-leather uniforms, belts with new form Double G buckles, and Tom Ford shades. Black leather and silk gave way to leopard, deep red, mirror ball embellishment, and floral decoration.

For a show suspended in time, the energy is palpable. We can’t wait for Demna’s actual Gucci runway debut in February.