Daniel W. Fletcher FW23 was a high art moment. Set in the Royal Academy’s Fine Rooms – where works by the likes of Constable, McComb, Hyman and Spencer are showcased alongside ornate décor – the British designer presented a collection rooted in Britain’s history of craft: “of making with precision, integrity, nuance and a forever future-facing drive.”

Titled, I Loved You From The Start, the collection included a collaboration with Huntsman, the 174-year-old Savile Row tailor. This partnership stretches back six months, in which time Fletcher worked with Huntsman’s master tailors to develop the season’s nine bespoke suits, which will be made-to-order at the house’s Savile Row store, and twelve ready-to-wear styles.

Within this, a sense of formality is at once captured and contemporised: framed around the type of structured shoulders and narrow waists you’ll see on an episode of The Crown, Fletcher added his own sleek, modern volumes; pooling trousers, cropped jackets and louche, oversized shirting. Traditional basting stitching was left on show to highlight the meticulous tailoring process and embrace a raw, DIY feel that speaks to Fletcher’s playful craft, while long leather gloves pulled up to the elbow were black-tie kink. Belts strapped across tailoring created the illusion of jumpsuits and corsetted backs were exquisite, modern-day romance. In their hand, models carried luggage resembling traditional hat boxes.

Throughout, proportions were distorted: exaggerated sleeves draped across hands, soft shawl shirt collars dre gentle shapes and oversized wool coats were subtle expressions of glamour. Everything played out to a soundtrack of “lost and unrequited love stories” – including a finale set to Lou Reed’s forever goosebump-inducing Perfect Day. “I wanted to show the best of what we do here in the UK,” said Fletcher, “the craft behind creating these collections and the heritage of British fashion.”