Against the intimate backdrop of the chandelier-lined Holy Trinity Church in Marylebone, Daniel w. Fletcher’s offering was an intimate, poignant ode to his late father, Pete, via a nostalgic trip through the louche 70s. One to always site his heritage as a focal point for inspiration, after the passing of his father, Fletcher’s personal references rang clearer than ever this season. 

To the soundtrack of Depeche Mode and The Rolling Stones, the British designer’s collection of classic pinstripe tailoring and heritage knitwear came sweeping down the runway. It was evident that Jagger and his exiles on Main Street were at the epicentre of Daniel’s moodboard – alongside Serge Gainsbourg and Led Zep – riffing on the band’s distinct take on slim suiting and swingin’ swagger — the Stones were Fletcher’s first live gig, attended at the age of eleven with his father. Leather suits with contrast stitching, denim twin-sets, fur-trimmed PVC: turns out you can get what you want.

Rockstar’s aside, Fletcher continued his foray into Britain’s heritage sports; the 70s Manchester United jersey – the one that makes you think of Best, Law and Charlton – got a modern refashioning in a nod to his United-mad father and striped knit scarves borrowed from the Old Trafford terraces were handcrafted by none other than Olympic champion Tom Daley. This sense of nostalgia was mirrored in Fletcher’s womenswear, which blurred gender boundaries à la Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg. An A-line dress coat in lush cream with an alpaca bottom tier and patent leather top was a standout, while Fletcher’s school colours stood front and centre in his boyish female tailoring. It wasn’t just Daley that was enlisted to help realise Fletcher’s vision, the final four looks were adorned with silk organza headpieces designed by Noel Stewart, inspired by those worn by The Stones’ 1973 Goats Head Soup on their David Bailey-shot album cover.

This was rock ’n’ roll but distinctly Fletcher, and as his first show in London since 2019 it truly was a nod to home turf: a beautiful moment for the British designer who has become one of the most thrilling and singular talents on the London schedule.