Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry last season was a well-weathered ode to British sensibility which set the tone for a return to the brand’s roots. Followed by a series of campaigns shot by Tyrone Lebon and starring the likes of Skepta and Raheem Sterling, Lee is redefining the heritage brand for this generation. Released today, Lee’s sophomore collection for the house builds a wardrobe fit for the British outdoors, although it’s probably a bit too fancy to wear when hiking the Yorkshire Dales.

The brand’s inimitable check is given a psychedelic makeover, sitting atop classic car coats and silk chiffon dresses paired with coordinating tights, distorted and warped like Bridget Riley’s op-art illusions. Knits are fitted with buttoned sleeves and collars, digital dandelion graphics bubble and blossom, and the house’s iconic trench is rendered in lightweight washed nylon. Signature archive pieces are reinterpreted as zip pockets on trousers hark back to a 1920s ski suit, denim is cuffed with roses and traditional rugby jerseys are fashioned into playful tracksuits. Also turning to Saville Row craftsmanship for inspiration, tailoring is immaculately executed through peak-lapelled coats in houndstooth check and tartan two-pieces. In a continuation from last season, Lee’s ducks waddle back into view. Last seen on knitted headwear at the FW23 show, for SS24 the quintessentially British motif is printed across matching co-ords paired with leather stirrup boots for girls and woollen duffle coats for the guys. On the accessory front, it’s all about fur and feathers. The Knight bags are recognised by their bridled horse clip, while plush cashmere scarves are fringed and voluminous faux fur trapper hats steal the show. Balancing the casual and classic, sophistication and subversion, Lee’s vision of Burberry is becoming clearer with each season, and the forecast is good.