Guests to Daniel Lee’s debut Burberry show sat on check blankets with check water bottles and hot toddies to hand. The Yorkshire designer knows Britain’s climate well – and knows how to please the locals; there they were on the front row, the crème de la crème of British talent: Stormzy, Vanessa Redgrave, Jodie Comer, Naomi Campbell, Son Heung-min, Jamie XX and Damon Albarn. The space was inspired by “Burberry tents from the late 19th and early 20th century,” read the show notes, “the intimate interior evokes a cosiness that provides warmth and protection from the elements.”

The idea of British weather served as a petri dish for Lee’s collection, which redefined the house codes with an eye on functionality and utilitarianism. Trenchcoats reigned (or rained) supreme, but reimagined through Lee’s craft – sometimes with oversized bottle-green fur collars, sometimes checked, often reworked in sculptural silhouettes.

And what’s more British than ducks? They waddled out as knitted headwear and all-over prints. One feathered coat even looked like a magnificent exotic bird entering the local pond. ‘Roses aren’t always red’ read long-sleeve tees, zippered trouser pockets twisted hiking garm with punk, and oversized messenger bags were reminiscent of those school bags you wear as a kid twice your size. There were safety-pinned knits, duffle coats, rubber rain boots and wild faux fur hats. Fluffy bags, suede tunics and Westwood-esque kilts. With a wink and a nod, Lee’s debut was a spectacular story of Britishness that left us warm and fuzzy (cheers for the hot water bottle!)