“It was really about establishing what is the future vision for Mithridate,” Daniel Fletcher explained to us the day before the designer presented his debut collection as creative director at the Chinese brand. “Building those core items that are going to remain a key part of the new Mithridate woman.”

Backstage at the show, enduring references across Fletcher’s design language were pinned to the moodboard: the Rolling Stones in their younger years – before Sticky Fingers took things darker – striped boating blazers, Princess Diana. “It’s a little bit Mick Jagger, but also a little bit Oxford Cambridge rowing race.” With his new position, the designer wanted to blend these Fletcher classics with traditional Chinese craft techniques engrained in Mithridate’s ethos.

The first look – a white weighted bomber jacket with epaulettes worn over a classic men’s pinstripe shirt and paired with a knee-length skirt embellished with hand-beaded tassels – showcased Fletcher’s vision. Richard Curtis rom-coms were mentioned in the show notes, influencing a typically British spirit of eccentricity, jumpers over polos over untucked shirts paired with short shorts, jackets over jackets, and jumpers tied around waists or slung across shoulders no doubt in a rush to catch a loved one before they leave forever. Playful drop-waist dresses were youthful interpretations of a classic gown silhouette alongside tactile fluffy knits, tan suede, harringtons, leathers, animal print, and pointed punky brogues – finding perfect balance between romance and rebellion.