Courrèges invited guests to the white cube space of Le Carreau du Temple once again this season, transforming the panting floor of FW24 into an installation by Finnish artist duo, Grönlund-Nisunen. As guests entered, the large “Ocean Drum” remained static but as the first model hit the runway the sculpture began to tip and hundreds of metal balls rushed around its surface to evoke the sound of crashing waves, which was soon taken over by a remix of Underworld’s Born Slippy.

Three words stood out on Nicolas Di Felice‘s show notes: repetition, revolution, and renewal. For SS25 it was evident that the designer was focused on the beauty of repeated cycles, delivering a collection that prioritised the sleek minimalism for which the house has become best known. Since his appointment as creative director of the brand in 2020, Di Felice has continued to renew Courrèges’ archival codes for the 21st-century woman: the architecture of a 1962 Haute Couture cape was reimagined in the opening look of a cocoon-like leather garment, while the closing series of gowns featured archive elliptical patterns fused with details of jersey, as hemlines mimicked the rippling of the sea.

Di Felice’s penchant for the monochromatic was steadfast, as signature pieces such as the ‘magic square’ mesh top or front-pocketed dresses were designed exclusively in hues of black, white, grey and tan. As for accessories, Di Felice introduced a new iteration of the brand’s Holy Bag featuring a phantom jellyfish. In continuing to do what he does best, Di Felice proved the age-old theory that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, and assured us it’s OK to be an outfit repeater because let’s be serious, who’s wearing these pieces only once?