Debuting avant-garde silhouettes has been Rei Kawakubo’s modus operandi for decades. The surface of tartan suit jackets were disrupted by additional tubular arms and extra legs trailed from the waistbands of slim-fit trousers – but the focus was more so on texture than tailoring this season. Black jackets in a multi-textured raised camouflage pattern tantalised the eye, as graphic-print silken, tiered shirts with ruffled hems felt markedly delicate. Suiting in pink and periwinkle was covered in scrawled, unintelligible letters derived from the work of London-based Canadian artist Edward Goss, as broad-shouldered matador-style jackets came cinched at the waist, rendered in an effect that mimicked wood grain.

Fur permeated the collection, like a controlled overgrowth sprouting along hemlines and across the surface of garments. A jacket comprised of two pinstripe blazers melded together featured black fur trimming which demarcated where one ended and the other began. Elsewhere, a black woollen jacket erupted into spontaneous patches of shearling while an armless fur blazer was remodelled into a robust poncho. Footwear options added to the unconventional aesthetic: ranging from military-style boots designed in conjunction with Lewis Leathers to a fresh iteration of the Nike x Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Air Pegasus 2005. Each look was also finished with a headpiece by Gary Card or Valériane Venance; obscure crown-like structures, fitting for a collection that proved Kawakubo still rules when it comes to abstraction.