For SS24, Chinese-American designer Chet Lo delivered a collection rooted in the intensity of sexual desire. Reflecting on a youth spent growing up in the early 2010s repressed by Western media’s heteronormative ideal of beauty and sexuality, Lo is now reclaiming autonomy over his own narrative.

Casting the Old Selfridges Hotel space in a seductive red hue, a modern homage to ancient Chinese erotic art saw Lo create a sexually liberated world in which everyone is welcome. Explicit artwork was printed on leather motorcycle jackets, while passionate kissing figures could be found on knitted skirts, lace trousers and satin tops. The designer’s signature spikes took on varying levels of intensity across baby tees and maxi skirts in a subtler iteration for those looking to bring spikes into their everyday wardrobe – and for the more daring among us, Lo even put spikes on a G-string. Ouch.

References to Shibari – a modern Japanese form of rope bondage – revealed further exploration of sexual fantasy as intricate roping was incorporated into mini dresses, reverse neckties were worn taught around the neck and Chinese knots anchored thong detailing onto trousers. In a continuation of Lo’s collaboration with Charles & Keith, this season offered spiked loafers and strappy heels, ensuring no item of clothing was left without a spiky touch.