There was high drama in Paris this season after word got out that Y/Project were cancelling their FW24 show. The Y/Project show is usually the hottest ticket in town for a certain group of impossibly cool Parisian kids. For them, Glenn Martens is McQueen and Galliano. Someone who is creating some of the most exciting collections in Paris and someone whose preferred material, denim, is often found twisted and contorted and disguised in so many myriad ways that it feels like witnessing alchemy. 

Fear not, Y/Project didn’t skip this season entirely, instead, the brand opted to present the collection celebrating ten years of Martens as creative director in the form of a lookbook. Amongst an eclectic roster of models featuring everyone from Charli XCX and Irina Shayk to Martens’ father and Interview Magazine editor-in-chief Mel Ottenberg, the collection is a classic mix of traditional silhouettes punctuated with science fiction-like creations. It’s hard to look at Look 28 and not immediately think of the costumes currently in every cinema in the country thanks to Dune 2. Or, perhaps, Look 44 could be a Satyr, that half-man/half-goat creature from Greek mythology.

But, this season, the more traditional silhouettes are the collection’s standouts. The plaid shirt dress with an accompanying veil evokes 90s casual wear in a refreshingly heightened way while jeans bunch to the extreme at the bottom in a voluminous take on a classic straight-leg cut. One major thing to note is the black denim bag in Look 23 – silly to the extreme and we all need one, immediately.