Chanel has been the word on everyone’s lips this week. As Matthieu Blazy‘s collection hit stores, the girls have been shopping, queuing down the street and WhatsApping client advisors to get their hands on a piece from the designer’s debut collection. And just as their credit cards were maxed, Blazy returned with another swoon-worthy collection.

Taking over Paris’ Grand Palais once again, this season’s show space mimicked a construction site – cranes towered over the runway in primary colours, and the sound of Lady Gaga’s Just Dance echoed under the glass ceiling. As with every Chanel show, the FROW was star-studded, including Margot Robbie, Teyana Taylor, Olivia Dean, Lily-Rose Depp and Jennie.

Continuing his ongoing conversation with the legacy of Gabriel “Coco” Chanel, Blazy dissected the designer’s ability to seamlessly blend functionality with high fashion. The signature archetype of the Chanel suit was the base of the collection, reimagined in exquisite new forms – from delicate florals to shimmering iridescents, from golden tweed to ruffle-trimmed monochromes. Nods to the 1920s felt palpable across patchwork flapper dresses, dropped waist skirts and intricate beading, while strict colour codes were abandoned for vivid combinations, such as baby pink and blue or siren red and chartreuse.

Closing out his show notes, Blazy neatly summed up his vision for the house: “Chanel is a paradox, Chanel is function, Chanel is fiction. Chanel is sensible, Chanel is seductive. Chanel is day, Chanel is night. It represents the freedom to choose between the caterpillar and the butterfly whenever you want. I wish to create a canvas for women to be unapologetically who they are and who they want to be.”