A pulse. A breath. A beat. That discernible Celine thrill returned for another season as Hedi Slimane‘s FW22 vision ushered a new regality to Paris’ gilded halls. Titled Dans Paris, in resplendent cape and jewels, the Celine woman strode through the newly-restored Salons D’Apparat of the Hôtel de la Marine – rooms originally used to present the royal collections to native and foreign aristocracy, and the scene of many lavish receptions and balls. Here, a new generation was ascending.
Meanwhile, in reflection of Slimane’s debut Celine show in 2018 which took place in an architectural pavilion erected on the ground of Hôtel des Invalides, a brand-new structure was crafted in the same location for this season defined by black modernist lines. These two buildings underscored Slimane’s enduring narrative since his arrival at the Parisian house: a tapestry between Paris then and now; a palpable energy that surges through its streets. The soundtrack offered a sonic diving board for Slimane’s time-hopping girls: an original track by Hennessey, the music project of NYC native Leah Hennessey, titled Byron is Dead – centred around the musician’s obsession with Lord Byron and set to a beat that’d wake the old romantic from his deep, dark stupor.
This context played directly into the collection, which saw Slimane continue his reshaping of traditional Parisian style – distilled in its purest form. Worn by a cast that included Kaia Gerber and Blackpink’s Lisa (cue internet frenzy), luxurious textures and details were subtle in their play, and meticulous in construction. Staples of Slimane’s Celine – cropped denim, structured blazers and sportswear accents – were punctuated by exquisite hand-embroidery crafted in the house’s Paris ateliers, shimmering to neon strobes and chandelier droplets equally, as a wardrobe manifested representative of those wearing it. A portrait of the modern woman, looks danced from daytime – oversized knitwear, immaculate cashmere overcoats, trenches, wellies, perfectos, windbreakers, hoodies and polo necks – to nighttime – pitch-black leathers, a supple tan leather dress and evening gowns in abstract and embroidered form. On foot, the new Celine Verneuil boot debuted its sharp heel, while slim black sunglasses carved a new wave demeanour.
As the venue lights rearranged to form Celine’s Triomphe motif, the sun set on Paris, and on another pulsating Slimane production.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Celine WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-22