Time warp

Bianca Saunders’ debut Paris show was a lesson in distorted structure
By Bailey Slater | Fashion | 19 January 2022

No one does bold quite like Bianca Saunders. With the ANDAM-winning designer, the devil is always in the details, a blink-or-you’ll-miss-it approach to the technicality of menswear that pushes the envelope with every hidden seam and angular strap. That’s what A Stretch, her first physical solo show (and Paris runway debut), is about, really, an exploration of movement and shape that does exactly what it says on the tin, without the fuss of flouncy embellishments or blockbuster distractions.

“I want the collection to be timeless,” said the designer of her intentions, “it could be now, it could be the past, it could be the future. It’s not just about one person – I want everyone to see a part of themselves in it.” See is the operative word, of course, as distorted 3D prints tease the eye, curving and swerving around the body on formal shirts and trousers with concealed fastenings and fanged collars. Zips slope down the neck in a stable state of non-undress, with lopsided jacket pockets following closely behind. Linen totes are creaseless and packet-flat, denim jackets square and wide. Bold colours shout, while the faint blueprints of Saunders’ architectural tailoring are subtle formations. It’s exactly these tricks of the eye that make A Stretch truly special. Saunders knows you’re watching, but are you paying attention?

GALLERYCatwalk images from Bianca Saunders FALL-WINTER-22