Newly appointed creative director Haider Ackermann gave us meticulously crafted, traditional camel coats for FW17, adding the odd stab of colour to cleverly introduce his own style into the classic brand. And his SS18 collection, which showed in Paris on Friday, was an acute continuation of his FW17 début.
His collection was inspired by a photo by Erwin Blumenfeld, who is “famous for his experimental double-exposures and reworking of colours until they morph into abstract delights,” the show notes explained. Reflecting the work of Blumenfeld, Ackermann spliced contrasting colours such as shiny lilac with sandy tan to create his own version of abstract.
Silk formed much of the elegance of this collection, whether it be the lining of jogging pants or a band down the side of a trouser. Re-imagining Berluti’s traditional design codes to create something that reflects today’s man, Ackermann has injected his synonymous louche luxury, here appearing in the form of light cashmere coats, jersey silk tank tops, and a day bag that transforms into a weekend bag, perfect for all those spontaneous sojourns – very Ackermann.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show