Fly away

Balmain’s SS24 menswear collection was inspired by the travels of the House’s founder
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 12 October 2023

For SS24, Olivier Rousteing turned to Balmain’s founder Pierre Balmain and his extensive travels across Asia as a starting point for this season’s menswear offering. Founded in Paris in 1945, Balmain is a house steeped in European heritage and craft, however this season saw global influences weave into Rousteing’s signature clean lines and sharp tailoring.

Delving into the culture of post-war America which fascinated Pierre Balmain, Rousteing delivered a series of looks inspired by servicemen returning to their hometowns, reimagining the souvenir coats brought back home by soldiers stationed in Vietnam, South Korea and Japan. Blousons and varsity jackets were emblazoned with rich iconography and ornamental decor consisting of fiery dragon motifs or kite illustrations, meanwhile, it was just the lapels of monochromatic coats which were adorned with the same print in a striking moment of contrast. Trousers were cut in slim silhouettes while sleek suit blazers were printed with swallow motifs. On foot, Cuban heeled boots crafted in flashes of black, white and red offered an elevated final touch to Rousteing’s storytelling.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Balmain MENS-SPRING-SUMMER-2024