Guests to the Amiri FW23 show received a transparent record player and vinyl, which played a delicate beat composed by legendary US record producer DJ Premier – otherwise known as Preemo, and the maestro behind many of the world’s biggest records, working with the likes of Jay-Z, Nas, Kanye West, Dr Dre, Snoop Dogg and Christina Aguilera, as well as being one half of influential duo Gang Starr. Inside the showspace, the floor became a record,and models walked along the grooves to an original soundtrack performed live by DJ Premier & The Badder Band.

Time spent with Preemo in his Queens studio inspired founder and creative director Mike Amiri, whose adolescent years were soundtracked by the musician’s work. The musician’s storied archives became a moodboard, outlining a silhouette inspired by ideas of Americana youth: from those 50s archetypes forged when teenagers were carving their own culture, through 90s hip-hop to today’s slouchy, easeful skate sensibility. Off-kilter fits forged on skateparks mingled with preppy uniforms, while a Beat Generation counterculture spirit flowed into the shapes of 90s NYC. Layer upon layer, consider this a concept show, as Mike and his team replicated the idea of being in a production studio, jamming, freestyling, perfecting textures, shapes, flow.

Woollen jacquard overcoats sat on top of cashmere cardigans and graphic knitwear, with untucked shirting poking out beneath. Each look hit the beat, on rhythm. A sense of performance was necessary on such a stage, and it played out via the artful craft details and techniques on show. Loose-ended embroidered sequins swung from suiting like Elvis tassels, and fine threads of silk attached to garments swayed in the breeze, replicating the unique texture of fur. Hand-painted compositions created in the Amiri studio were reimagined as shearling jackets using leftover fabrics that resembled vivid brushstrokes. Everything was tactile and luxurious.

At the finale, the full model line-up spiralled around the record runway as Premier orchestrated the sonics, and Mike Amiri came out for his bow wearing a t-shirt in support of Iranian women fighting for liberation.