With AMI, Alexandre Mattiussi is right now witnessing a rare phenomenon: what started with the simple intent of making beautiful clothes for friends and family has rapidly shot to the vanguard of the young French menswear set. If the recent opening of a second Paris store says anything it’s that he’s hot local property, while FW14’s slew of international retailer additions suggests the rest of the world is cottoning on.

Yesterday it was an intelligent ode to the teenager and high school days, a wistful attitude edged with Mattiussi’s relaxed tailoring and chilled out styling that cited the likes of Heartbreak High and Beverly Hills 90210. Windbreakers and ripped, washed out jeans harked back to the days of ‘physical education’ classes – and the bemoaning teen state that came with them. When all that mattered was the end of day bell.

The presence of female models felt like the return of a long lost sister in possession of the same impeccable style that gets her male counterpart far – an accurate reflection of the growing number of girls who nick Ami from boys’ wardrobes.

That’s the thing with Mattiussi: it started with friends and it will remain as such to the end, be you boy, girl, French or other. It’s a creed that will get him far.