The calm before the storm

AMI shut down the Place des Victoires for a mesmerising show
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 26 June 2025

Before the storms rolled in and rocked Paris last night, Alexandre Mattiussi’s AMI caused a little disruption of its own, shutting down the iconic Place des Victoires and transforming it into a circular runway. The epicentre of one of Paris’ most fashionable (and upmarket) neighbourhoods, the Place des Victoires is also the site of AMI’s head offices, which meant the team were literally working on their doorstep. For Mattiussi, the show was all about bringing the collection out onto the streets, further emphasising his brand’s raison d’être, which has always been to elevate the everyday wardrobe of the people who actually live and work in Paris.

To the slow, hypnotic build of Ravel’s Boléro, the first model emerged wearing a familiar staple this season: flip-flops. Paired with a cinched black knee-length coat and khaki trousers, the look embodied the eclectic mix of styles that’s becoming a defining trend this year. As the collection unfolded, military touches appeared, like a khaki skirt with a flapped pocket stitched onto the front as if upcycled from an army uniform. The abundance of neckerchiefs too suggested a Boy Scout theme.

Elsewhere, classic blue shirts had frills along the placket, belts were oversized with buckles you could put your hand through, and chartreuse got its chance to shine as a dominant colour across blazers, handbags and skirts. It was all about personal style with this collection, with an emphasis on the mix-and-match approach that most people make when simply putting an outfit together for the day.

In a mesmerising touch, instead of the models doing one circuit of the Place, they all continued to walk in ever diminishing spirals around the plaza’s roundabout. Perhaps reflecting the endless circularity of the Boléro, it was hard not to also see something of the oncoming maelstrom in the churn of models which, less than an hour later, brought the entire city to a standstill.

GALLERYCatwalk images from AMI MENS-SPRING-SUMMER-2026





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