Closing out the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, AMI invited guests to a Haussman-style building on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. Previously a department store, the now derelict space sprawls across three floors, all exposed brick walls painted white and industrial staircases. Alexandre Mattiussi’s front row this season consisted of Catherine Deneuve, Diane Kruger, Adam DiMarco, Zhou Yiran and Bright, explaining the screaming crowds gathered on Paris’ most famous street. 

As the lights went up, the thumping beat of the Thin White Duke remix of Starsailor’s Four to the Floor and LCD Soundsystem’s Home (Tom Sharkett Edit) echoed through the speakers, and the first look hit the runway. Menswear focused on voluminous silhouettes, pairing billowing overcoats with trousers that pooled at the foot or hoodies worn under layers of denim jackets and tweed blazers. Clashing patterns appeared in varying forms, such as argyle knitwear paired with houndstooth check and pinstripes worn alongside herringbone. Womenswear adopted a slightly more structured silhouette, with croc-inspired leather pencil skirts, leopard print trenches cinched at the waist and dresses that ballooned at the hips. Runway it-girls Alex Consani, Adwoa Aboah and Mona Tougaard sported looks that mirrored the designer’s menswear offering in layered overcoats, supple leather bomber jackets and slouchy knitwear. 

Speaking on this season’s collection, Mattiussi said, “I wanted more freedom in how the pieces are worn – mixing very casual items with more sophisticated ones, colours and styles… It’s really about everyday life on a Parisian street. When you sit at a café terrace, you see all kinds of people passing by. It’s never the same stories, characters or clothes: this diversity is fundamental for me. That’s Ami Paris – a reflection of a real, livable elegance, of an everyday reality.”