Inspired by Larry Clark (Kids, Bully, Tulsa) and his uncompromising look at youth culture that does not sweep anything under the table, Alan Taylor has also been drawn to the confessional art of Tracey Emin for FW15.
The clothes echo the style of late 90s to mid 00s skate videos in four fabrics; two suiting, jersey and denim. (Taylor has been skateboarding since the age of twelve, when he was growing up in the Dublin suburbs). His intention? To create clothes for board riding in, skate suits that can be styled in many ways yet still retain a strong identity; they are clothes for a tribe to wear, look great in and not be overly precious about.
Denim jackets and tailoring are stripped of pocket flaps and lapels to create something more utilitarian, becoming a faithful part of their wearer’s story years down the line.
Trousers are slit at the knee, a cleaned-up nod to torn, beaten-up denim. Buttons are replaced with pull-and-slap velcro. Drawstrings change the silhouette of baggy t-shirt silhouettes as needed – billowing movement for the ramp, pulled-in down the pub. Puffa jackets, essential for winter, are smartened up in pinstripe cloth.
Vinyl prints throughout the collection are photographs of the designer’s bedroom. A diary emotional yell, their slogans are; JUMP OFF A BUILDING YOU BLOODSUCKING CORPORATE SCUM, YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE AND YOU KNOW WHAT YOU’VE DONE and MY MIND REBELS AT STAGNATION, REPETITION AND CONSTANT DISAPPOINTMENT.
Whilst those graphics are present day, they are also a reminder of not that long ago, when Taylor’s studio was his bedroom.
Click here to see Josh Church’s film that accompanies the collection.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show