Cashmere flocks fell from the sky onto an incredibly soft and luxurious mountain in the centre of the Zegna runway. The installation reflected the sustainable recycling process in constant production at the brand’s Oasi mill in the Biella Alps. 2024 marks an important year for Zegna, who commit to certifying the fibres of Qasi Cashmere as 100 percent traceable from this year.

Showcasing his team’s latest ideas and innovations, the idea of transformation was at the root of Alessandro Sartori’s FW24 collection. “The collection is an open system, made of elements that can be layered and combined in many ways, allowing the individual attitude of the wearer to come through in the form of personal styling,” the show notes read.

Set to Friends That Break Your Heart, a composition by friend of the house James Blake, the collection offered reinvented menswear staples, reworked with versatility and adaptation. Classics remastered, there were dropped shoulder wool overcoats that wrapped the body like robes, pleated chore jackets, double-collar blazers and collarless anoraks. Boxy cashmere shapes presented new, casual forms alongside knit trousers seamed at the front and back, while quilted ‘sonic welded duvets’ sat between layers of cashmere, and ribbed and padded jumpers were warm outerwear alternatives. In cashmere-backed plongè leather, pure cashmere terry, multi melange shetland/cashmere and raw denim, here were fabrications you could live in and make your own. And that’s the secret of Sartori’s vision: inventing for today and tomorrow.