Titled Pink Noise, A-Cold-Wall*’s SS25 collection signals a new phase for the brand, a multi-season deepdive into the storied history of Britain’s sonic culture. (This is the first collection since founder Samuel Ross left the brand.) In Milan, the brand began this by tuning into the practice of illicit radio broadcasting.

Captured as a lookbook featuring musicians including Goldie, Sleaford Mods’ Jason Williamson, Jawnino, and Don Letts, the collection was presented in Milan through an immersive installation created by artist Ken-Tonio Yamamotom featuring moving portraits of the lookbook talents soundtracked by voice notes from members of the ACW* network discussing their relationship with space and sound. The collection itself was a study of subcultural dressing, examining underground codes through fabric innovation and interpretation. Goldie wore jeans spray painted with ‘Metalheadz’ the record label he co-founded in 1994, anoraks were distorted and contoured through drawstring fasteners, and technical tailoring offered modern interpretations of traditional shapes. The brand’s signature tactical ‘form gilet’ was further explored in new fabrications and silhouettes, while a collaboration with Japanese biotech company Spiber rendered outerwear, cargo pants and a hooded dress in lab-grown fibres, creating tactile, distressed textures.