Following his recent Resort offering, Samuel Ross’ SS22 collection doubles down on vibrant colour and asymmetric silhouettes for an aesthetic pivot that appears to have embraced the changes happening all around it. Presented via a seven-minute film shot against the backdrop of east London’s financial district of the early 90s, the collection bears many of Ross’ conceptual hallmarks – an emphasis on protection, utility and futurist formalwear – while incorporating a new, vibrantly coloured spirit into the fold.

With his signature emphasis on brevity, the only words to accompany the collection were: Motion, Form, Oscillate and Converge, a suitably cryptic signposting for a man who prefers to do his talking on the runway. There the message was one of innovation, particularly among the collection’s silhouettes, which ranged from cape-like full-body wraps to more conventional two-piece ensembles that experimented with colour and asymmetric forms.

Balaclavas and padded technical wear gave a familiar sense of some urban vigilante uniform, but elsewhere this was dialed down to give way to something softer. Blankets and oversize shawls draped over shoulders and leggings protruded beneath shorts. Colours moved fluidly between lime green, yellow, orange, blue and mint and fabric totes offered a more modest alternative to the concept-heavy accessories of previous seasons.