Free Your Mind

A-Cold-Wall* FW22 takes us into the nomadic unknown
By Bailey Slater | Fashion | 18 January 2022

“The days of fixed forecasting and predictive creativity must come to an end,” decrees Samuel Ross in the notes for his latest A-Cold-Wall* show. “Such an intention is not a flourish, or spark of purpose, nor reflective of the artist’s pursuit of external expression.” Rallying against WGSN and the ten-year trend rule, in which Y2K is about to lose its foothold, Ross wants to blaze a new trail. Spontaneity and self-belief, it seems, are his keys to true artistic expression.

Acting upon impulse, the colourful optimism seen on runways for JW Anderson and MSGM as an escape doesn’t exist here. Instead, Ross’ models armour up for an urban and functional dystopia, costumed in innovative fabrics cast in a palette of moody greys and flashes of silver body paint. Juxtaposed against the bleak concrete facades of the Tate Modern, they’re flanked by jumbo tote bags in glitzy copper browns, swallowed by trackpants that shift and gather into tense, arched curves and consumed by iridescent, mesh headgear. It’s a redefining of the sportswear that initially catapulted the concept-led designer to fame, under the guise of a nomadic future, not necessarily a utopic one. Won’t you join him?

GALLERYCatwalk images from A-Cold-Wall* FW22