Last season, Matthew M. Williams took us to an abandoned swimming pool on the outskirts of Milan and yesterday, for 1017 ALYX 9SM‘s FW23 offering, we were immersed in the world of Mark Flood at Spazio Maiocchi Gallery. Created in collaboration with the American artist who is known for his tongue-in-cheek take on culture and propaganda-like graphics, the space was an ideal backdrop for Williams’ nuanced design work accented by a painterly touch.

Continuing to merge advanced technical fabrics with a traditional artisan craft, duelling textures were at the fore: raw hemmed wool blazers met overdyed denim two pieces, and fuzzy neon faux fur met techy bomber jackets. Inspired not only by Flood’s artistry but the subcultures of his youth, angsty graphic slogans sat atop hoodies and tees while punkish leather was fashioned into oversized cargos and distressed biker jackets. Distressed layers walked alongside satin top coats over combat pants, while shorts were stacked over jeans. Championing handcraft, many pieces of the collection were created with moments of distressing, which allow the pieces to adapt with wear, while the stud detailing which featured heavily across bandanas, boots and tailoring was hand-applied by Italian craftsmen.

On foot, a new range saw chunky soles integrated into all footwear styles as overside military boots, some spiked, studded or monochromatic, stomped down the runway in contrast to the cowboy boots sported by women. While the menswear pieces were very much rooted in 1017 ALYX 9SM’s signatures, womenswear saw Williams lean into his Givenchy codes with sleek silhouettes and subverted tailoring. All tied together to deliver a chic throwback to grunge, 1017 ALYX 9SM has once again proved the 90s aren’t going anywhere. Flood’s artwork will be exhibited in the Studio Maiocchi showspace post-show, allowing guests to further explore the artist’s visceral output.