In 1969, Parisian photographer Jean Clemmer joined forces with fashion designer Paco Rabanne to create a new book of nudes. Titled Nues, it featured models scantily dressed in Rabanne’s radical metal designs and raised a shockwave of controversy for its unapologetic eroticism, bringing up questions of sexual representation that still resonate today.

Now, Paco Rabanne has revealed a new capsule collection realised by graphic designer Peter Saville and the label’s artistic director, Julien Dossena, interviewed here. The pair delved into the catalogue of Jean Clemmer, emblazoning t-shirts and sweaters with Nues’ other published titles – Canned Candies and Akt in Ketten – to evoke ideas of sexual intrigue and provocation.

Though this is the first collaboration between Dossena and Saville, it’s not the first time the latter has been involved in the fashion world. The graphic designer’s career began in Manchester, where he rose to prominence for his unconventional style and work with Factory Records, most notably designing record sleeves for Joy Division and New Order. In 2013, he was awarded the prestigious London Design medal, recognising him as the UK’s most renowned graphic designer. Saville has also used his position to challenge aspects of the fashion industry from within: he’s adorned collections with slogans that read “Meaningless excitement” (Yohji Yamamoto SS14) and destroyed iconic logos (Lacoste SS14).

The Paco Rabanne collection spawned from Saville and Dossena’s shared love of cult books. Here, Julien Dossena reflects on the process and the lasting cultural influence of Clemmer’s work.

Nazanin Shahnavaz: What is it about Jean Clemmer’s book, Nues, that inspired you and Peter Saville?
Julien Dossena: We thought the way that Nues questions eroticism is still relevant today, also we are both book nerds and love that book.

NS: So what do you think it was about Paco Rabanne’s work that attracted Jean Clemmer to collaborate with him? 
JD: I think it was this mix of surrealism and sexual liberation, which was the core of Paco Rabanne’s strong vision, and that attracted Jean Clemmer. I guess also the modern metallic materials worn by the models allowed him to photograph nudes in an innovative way.

NS: You drew from the original titles of the book for the collection, as well as using the phrase “FUTURESEX” – your own interpretation of the book’s message but in a modern context. What does “FUTURESEX” mean to you?
JD: “Futuresex” came from Peter and we loved this idea that it was an internet typo, a screen feeling that pushed it into the digital age. Moreover, the gender question that it asks, made us think of this word as a super contemporary expression.

“Nues still questions eroticism and sexual representation and that continues to resonate strongly today.”

NS: Why do you feel Nues still feels so impactive and relevant in the context of culture today?
JD: Because Nues still questions eroticism and sexual representation and that continues to resonate strongly today. All the political decisions which are made for or against that freedom or the kind of image that should be censored online is always on the news and still extremely present.

Peter Saville x Paco Rabanne is now available at Dover Street Market in London and in the Paco Rabanne boutique on Rue Cambon in Paris, as well as on pacorabanne.com.