Top image: Giles Peterson, Patrick Forge and Charlie Dark, London, 1998, courtesy of Charlie Dark / What We Wore

Soho’s experimental fashion tribes have become ingrained in its history, with diverse characters – from mods to club kids – leaving their mark on the area’s labyrinth streets. Now, these subcultures and their wardrobes are the subject of a new exhibition at The Photographers’ Gallery.  

Nina Manandhar, photographer and founder of the celebrated blog, What We Wore is currently in residence at the gallery, mapping the underground cultural past of Soho through its people’s photography and stories.

As independent clubs and shops are increasingly lost from the centre of the city, Nina explains: “What Soho Wore is an exploration of the area’s rich cultural history and the role that photography has had within the multiple scenes, movements and communities that have made Soho what it was and is today.”

Holly Eels: How did the concept of the What We Wore project come about?
Nina Manandhar: It’s a tribute to the sixteen-year-old me, and my friends. It came in part because I miss the simpler sense of belonging that comes with teen style and identification. Clothes were a big deal to me as a means of self-expression and belonging that has stayed with me to this day. 

HE: Why did you focus on Soho in particular for the exhibition?
NM: Soho has historically been super rich in terms of the thriving communities that have co-existed side by side, and personally that’s what city life is all about. It’s not so obvious now, but it has had a significant place in club land and music cultures, with independent music shops on Berwick Street, boutiques and clubs in and around Carnaby Street, and of course it’s been a cultural centre for the gay community. The sleazy side of Soho has its charm too!

HE: Exactly. For me, Soho is a dirty character combined with a wonderful vibrant charm, what does it mean to you?
NM: I spent a lot of time hanging in and around in Soho when I was growing up, where a lot of it revolved around music. At around fourteen-years-old I would go to gigs at what was The Astoria on Tottenham Court Road and when I was older I would go to club nights such as the 100 Club and Trash. I sort of feel safe in Soho, precisely because it is hectic, densely populated and non-stop in its nature. It holds a special place in my heart. 

HE: From collecting the images and stories to curating your own exhibition, is there a particular subculture or era you have become more attracted to and why?
NM: I like seeing the similarities and differences between them rather than being focused on particular ones. It’s fascinating to see the many different youth cults who have had Soho as their stomping ground, from the beatnik cafés of the 50s to electroclash trash kids in the early 2000s.

HE: Instagram plays such a large part in global circulation of imagery today, do you think this has increased your success and the level of interest in regards to submissions?
NM: Instagram can drive submissions but the majority of content comes from direct research and liaison with targeted individuals. With Soho I have actually been physically going out into the community and it has proven to be a really refreshing way to connect with people.

Manandhar is now inviting photo submissions to What Soho Wore via the dedicated project website or by emailing submit@what-we-wore.com with the subject line ‘SOHO’. Submissions can also be shared via Instagram by tagging photos with the hashtag #whatsohowore

The exhibition runs from 15 July–25 September at The Photographers’ Gallery, 16-18 Ramillies St, London W1F 7LW

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