MAN (a joint venture between Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East and high-street chain TOPMAN) has announced the FW16 line-up for London Collections: Men in January.
Charles Jeffrey was a newcomer during SS16 and wowed press through his super-glam, club-kid creations and energised presentation. (New Romantics were a clear inspiration.) Those paint-splattered jeans seared themselves into the heads of journalists, for all of the right reasons. Dexterous feats like that are expected.
Grace Wales Bonner is an award-winner, as of last week (a well-deserved one). Culturally rich in all things historical her presentations have stirred all kinds of commentary: race-related discussions, model diversification, sexuality, gender – no societal boundary is safe. You won’t see any form of vacuous design here, her clothes are fixed with factual bolts from robust research. It remains to see how she will translate this to a catwalk – we eagerly wait and see.
The third and final recipient is Rory Parnell-Mooney, an Irish lad who graduated from Central Saint Martins’ MA course in 2014 and debuted less than a year after at FW15 MAN. (That season he was stocked at Dover Street Market – his rise has been particularly meteoric, like most MAN recipients.) Dark and goth-like, his ecclesiastical boys are figures of ultra-sharp modernism that are cut and sewn at right-angles, diagonals, and every other eye-catching angle you can think of. How he continues to develop his specific aesthetic to engage with the wider industry will be key – like many other British-fashion successes have done before (JW Anderson, Astrid Andersen, Kim Jones, etc., etc.).
Stay tuned to HERO for full FW16 fashion week coverage from London, Paris, Milan and New York.