Maison Martin Margiela SS15: Look 26

The was also the purity of the new. Jonathan Anderson, on the heels of a stellar London show under his own name, presented his vision of Spanish leather house Loewe. Looking out over Saint Sulpice in the 6th, he offered classics defamiliarised. Coin pouches came triangular in exotic skins, shirts were twisted through cut and collar and a motorcycle jacket was covered in red, yellow and blue leather Meccano. Emerging from its chrysalis, it might be early days but he’s doing things in an interesting, intimate way.

Kris Van Assche’s invitation this season was gilded with the word Illusion, as models walked through a backdrop that looked like it had been plonked from Versailles into the industrial Halle Freyssinet space. Knees were sliced open on trousers and shorts and ties finished halfway down a shirt, cut away and hemmed in. A taste for rave and sending the models out in quick succession kept the energy up.

At Place Vendôme for Cerruti, where two days earlier Raf Simons had shown his collection, Aldo Maria Camillo riffed on a car journey from Palm Springs to LA, where direct routes are spurned. His clothes mixed tailoring, sportswear and silk foulard details – and his line-up reflected the trip, evolving from first looks to last.

At Berluti, in an impressive garden rive gauche, Alessandro Sartori offered his blend of sports couture combining craft with technology. The haute bootmaker offered something for everyone, as long as they’ve got money and taste, on a superb casting mixing men of all ages and stories. Closing the show, Alexander Beck got the audience chatting, carrying a red dachshund down the catwalk. In that exit at least, you couldn’t have it all.

Check out our roundups of Paris days one, two, four and five plus London and Milan.

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