Myth and mirage
Seven Magic Mountains, Las Vegas, Nevada. Photography by Ryan Donnell
Nevada has always existed between mirage and myth. For some, it’s the electric fever dream of Las Vegas, for others, it’s the endless basins of dust and sagebrush, sculptural red-rock canyons, and sprawling highways. It’s a place built as much from stories as from land – UFO sightings and casino fortunes, outlaw legends and Western tunes. From Fear and Loathing to Johnny Cash, from Area 51 to Elvis, Nevada has long held a strange, magnetic place in the American imagination.
But long before the neon, Nevada was forged in silver and dust. Boomtowns rose and fell on the strength of mining strikes, their remnants still scattered across the desert. Across its wide ranges, Nevada’s landscape soon became an open canvas for artists and eccentrics alike, people driven to turn strange, ambitious ideas into reality. In this, it’s shaped by a distinctly American Dream spirit of possibility, reinvention and self-made ambition.
That same impulse continues today, where beyond the clichés and conspiracy, a new generation of local artists, skaters and desert drifters continue to reshape Nevada’s identity from the ground up, repurposing abandoned motels, ghost towns and sun-blasted garages to build new communities and culture, layering fresh meaning onto the landscape rather than pasting over what came before.
The most authentic way to experience all of this is on the road. And no route captures Nevada’s beautifully offbeat energy quite like the Free-Range Art Highway – a 500-mile stretch between Las Vegas and Reno where monumental sculptures, hidden galleries and surreal desert installations plot your journey. Part open-air museum, part desert trip, it’s a drive that could only exist in Nevada. Here’s our ultimate guide to the Free-Range Art Highway.
Away from the Strip’s behemoth hotels themed on cities, histories, and fascinations, in Vegas’ burgeoning Arts District, something much more grounded and low-key cool is taking form, shaped by DIY art, contemporary craft and community-led spaces. It’s raw, but often the most exciting places are.
Conrad West Gallery
Echoing Vegas’ abstract personality, the Conrad West Gallery has established itself as a key space in the city’s Arts District, specialising in contemporary works by emerging and established artists. Currently on view, Richard Hambleton’s Shadowman silhouettes – rooted in the energy of 1980s New York – sit alongside the nostalgic pop compositions of Rob Croxford and the conceptual oil paintings of late Belgrade-born, Vancouver-based artist, Bratsa Bonifacho.
Conrad West Gallery, Las Vegas
Koolsville Tattoo
The ultimate Vegas souvenir isn’t a fridge magnet or an empty bank account, it’s a $10 tattoo. Open 24/7, Koolsville is the world-famous home of the $10 ink. Simply walk in, pick a flash design, hand over your cash, and walk away with a lifetime memento. It’s a Vegas rite of passage – no regrets!
The Dustland
Tucked into the Arts District, The Dustland is a bar that offers escape from the Strip’s frenzy. Its mid-century interiors and kitsch homeliness set the tone for a drinks list built on small-batch spirits and local beers and wines, with subtle nods to desert flavours (check out the Michelada, a delicious smoked lager alternative to a Bloody Mary). Since opening, it’s carved out an events programme based on intimate live gigs – inside, and on its impressive outdoor arch stage (Hollywood Bowl could never) – DJ sets, and low-key film screenings. On the week of writing, a double bill of Hard Target and Hard Vice plays alongside a drinking game based on explosions, slow-mos and nudity.
The Dustland, Las Vegas
Akin Cooperative
Just down the road from The Dustland, Akin Cooperative is a community-led space and lifestyle boutique showcasing local artisans and creators, with rails of independent clothing, shelves of handmade objects, and a curated selection of natural wines. As well as being a great place to shop, Akin also hosts regular events, such as wine tastings and workshops.
Seven Magic Mountains
Out just past the Southern edges of Las Vegas, where the city thins away, Seven Magic Mountains rises from the Ivanpah Valley’s desert floor. The totemic installation created by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone stacks boulders into vertical columns, each standing more than 25ft, and coats them in fluorescent Day-Glo, standing out against the muted tones of the Mojave. Think of it as Nevada’s Stonehenge, but far more psychedelic. In a cool artistic dialogue, Seven Magic Mountains is only a short distance from Jean Dry Lake, an ephemeral lake that was once home to artworks by Jean Tinguely and Niki de Saint-Phalle, and Michael Heizer.
Seven Magic Mountains, Las Vegas. Photography by Sydney Martinez
Arts Factory
At the centre of the Arts District, the Arts Factory is more of a working artistic ecosystem than a single venue. Home to more than 30 studios, galleries, and small creative businesses gathered under one roof, it offers something increasingly rare in major cities like this: affordable, accessible space for artists to make and show work. Corridors open onto everything from painting studios to experimental installations, with artists often present and mid-process, while frequent open days, exhibitions, and informal studio events draw people in from the neighbourhood, centring collaboration and community.
The Arts Factory, Las Vegas
Take Highway 95 from Las Vegas and follow the signs towards Beatty – a small desert town that still carries traces of its past as a mining outpost during Nevada’s early 20th-century boom. A gateway to Death Valley, this is where the landscape begins to really open out.
Area 51 Alien Center
On the drive from Vegas to Beatty, be sure to stop at the Area 51 Alien Center, where extraterrestrials haven’t just landed on Earth, they’ve set up a merch store stocking everything from UFO socks to glassware, magnets, and bottle openers. Hiding in plain sight? Perhaps.
Area 51 Alien Center, Amargosa Valley
Rhyolite / Goldwell Open Air Museum
To the Southwest of Beatty, close to the Nevada-California state line, stands the remains of Rhyolite. Once a Gold Rush boomtown, now a near-abandoned scatter of structures. There’s the hollowed-out Cook Bank Building, the old train depot, and the Tom Kelly Bottle House – one of the few remaining examples of bottle-house architecture in the US. A short distance away, you’ll notice a surreal sight: white-cloaked figures stand fixed in the sand, alongside a colourful, Lego-like form, and scattered abstract structures. This is the Goldwell Open Air Museum, founded by a group of Belgian artists led by Albert Szukalski.
It all started in 1984 with Szukalski’s The Last Supper – a large-scale work featuring ghostly figures cloaked in plaster-soaked burlap, echoing da Vinci’s Biblical scene – and grew from there as he invited his contemporaries to add works. There’s Lady Desert by Hugo Heyrman, a towering cinderblock figure reworking a classical figure into a playful silhouette, and house-like structures that seem to sink into the dust. Free to explore, the Museum also offers a residency programme for artists to embrace the wild, beautiful location.
Goldwell Open Air Museum, Beatty
Next stop is Goldfield, an almost-abandoned town that has the Twilight Zone feel of a place slightly out of step – saloon doors drifting in the wind, a mid-century gas station sitting empty, the streets wide and still.
International Car Forest of the Last Church
It’s approaching Goldfield that something very surreal comes into view: dozens of cars scattered across the desert, some half-buried nose-first in the sand, others stacked or balanced at impossible angles, their bodies coated in spray paint, overlapping tags and sun-bleached murals. Welcome to the International Car Forest of the Last Church.
The project began with longtime Goldfield resident Mark Rippie, whose original ambition was to land a Guinness World Record for the most cars buried nose-first in the ground – apparently, no such record stood. He later teamed up with Reno artist Chad Sorg, who shared the same offbeat fascination for turning scrapyards into art. Together, they transformed more than forty vehicles – from cars to limos to delivery trucks – into a sprawling open-air installation, left to gradually rust in the Mojave heat.
There’s no set route. Instead, the site builds its own logic through accumulation – layers of busted-up cars gathered, reworked and left behind over time. What holds it together is a freewheeling spirit of why not? In that sense, it feels distinctly Nevadan – a place where the ideas stirred up in a bar at 2am somehow become reality.
International Car Forest of the Last Church, Goldfield
Goldfield Art Cars
On a similar note, swing back through Goldfield for Goldfield Art Cars, home to Rocket Bob’s fleet of mutant vehicles. Long before custom car culture went mainstream, he was reworking vehicles into sculptural-survival mash-ups. Think Mad Max meets Scrapheap Challenge (a reference nobody from Nevada would get): air horns, dolls, shells, shoes, fishing equipment, all welded into place like trippy collages. A Dodge van sprouts a VW Beetle on top, turning it into a “double-decker”, while a ’76 Datsun carries a 50s powerboat overhead. Somehow, some of them have even been road-legal.
Goldfield Art Cars, Goldfield
Santa Fe Motel & Saloon
The Santa Fe Motel & Saloon is the type of bar roadtrips are made for. Built in 1905 by Hubert Maxgut (an all-time saloon-owner name), the spot has outlived mining booms, busts, and the fact Maxgut himself was shot dead in a gunfight in 1912. Today, it remains the oldest continually operating business in Goldfield, a time-capsule watering hole and one of the last surviving relics of Nevada’s silver rush era. Originally built to serve miners, railroad workers and travellers passing through town, the bar retains its original character: creaky wooden interiors, weathered bar stools, and walls buried beneath decades of collected history and local lore.
Santa Fe Motel & Saloon, Goldfield
Sitting in the high desert between Las Vegas and Reno, Tonopah was once one of Nevada’s biggest silver boomtowns in the early 1900s. Today, the town is known for its ghost stories, vast open landscapes and some of the best stargazing skies in the United States.
Clown Motel
TW: people with an irrational fear of clowns, scroll past. Tonopah’s infamous Clown Motel is exactly what it sounds like: the world’s only clown-themed motel. From the outside, it’s classic roadside America, inside, it’s wall-to-wall clowns (over 5,000): big ones, small ones, smiling ones, unhinged ones, ones that look freakishly real, all lined up like they’re waiting for something – or someone…
You can stay the night in a film-killer-themed room – if you’re that way inclined – or simply pop into the gift shop, which is, naturally, full of clowns. Next door is an old cemetery – because of course it is – filled with gruesome tales of mining incidents and lovers’ rage, which only adds to the “should I laugh or get back in the car” feeling.
Tonopah Clown Motel
Mizpah Hotel
Continuing the spooky theme, head to Tonopah’s infamous Mizpah Hotel for a drink. Opened in 1907 at the height of Nevada’s silver boom, the hotel is said to be one of the most haunted spots in the country. Think, The Overlook meets Western Saloon, its legend is anchored by the tale of the ‘Lady in Red,’ a presence guests claim still lingers on the upper floors. The Lady in Red is also the name of the hotel’s excellent Bloody Mary – less scary, more spicy.
When the vast desert floor suddenly starts to buckle upward into hard-edged mountain ranges, Reno emerges in the distance. Affectionately known as the ‘Biggest Little City in the World’, it has long been embedded in the mythology of the American West – immortalised by Johnny Cash in Folsom Prison Blues – building its reputation on neon casinos, cowboy lore and after-hours excess. But Reno feels different now, reimagined by a younger generation injecting the city with new energy. Nowhere is that shift clearer than in Midtown, a fast-evolving neighbourhood where artists, makers and creative upstarts are building a culture that feels fresh and energised – a low-key artistic hub with real momentum.
The Holland Project
An all-ages DIY non-profit venue and community art space, The Holland Project reflects Midtown Reno’s independent creative spirit. Modelled after like-minded projects nationwide – including its sister organisation, The Vera Project – The Holland boasts a non-stop calendar chock-a-block with screenings, gigs, talks, workshops and fashion presentations. It’s a bold space that thrives on experimentation and collaboration.
The Holland Project, Reno
West Street Market
In a similar vein, West Street Market in Downtown is an all-around good-time hub, bringing together local food stands, craft beer, independent retail and a rotating mix of art pop-ups under one roof. It’s the sort of place you dip into and end up hanging around all night.
Nevada Museum of Art
Midway between Midtown and Downtown, the Nevada Museum of Art offers a more established option; its desert-inspired building houses a comprehensive and diverse programme rooted in the American West. Standouts from the permanent collection include the Altered Landscape Photography Collection (1,000+ works), where artists like Edward Burtynsky and Richard Misrach chart the fault lines between nature and industry, alongside bold modern artworks by Michael Heizer and Petah Coyne. On view until May 31, Maya Lin: Pin River–Tahoe Watershed sees the artist map the fragile ecosystems of the Sierra Nevada through her signature blend of sculpture, mapping, and environmental storytelling.
Nevada Museum of Art, Reno
Kauboi
Kauboi Izakaya proves that sometimes you should follow the crowd. Trace the daily queue of people outside the restaurant, and you’re in for a culinary treat. One of Reno’s most popular and acclaimed eateries, the Japanese-inspired spot blends charcoal grilling and yakitori traditions with a playful, Western-tinged twist. It’s fast-paced, flavour-packed, and very much worth the wait, whether you’re dropping in for a quick bite or settling in for a menu deepdive.
National Bowling Stadium
Tucked into downtown Reno, the National Bowling Stadium is impossible to miss. Built in the mid-90s at the height of America’s bowling fever, the 78-lane arena sits beneath a giant silver dome locals affectionately dubbed ‘the Taj Mahal of Tenpins.’ Movie buffs will recognise it from the cult classic Kingpin, where Woody Harrelson and Bill Murray bowled their way through Reno’s seedy underbelly. Just please don’t ask for bumpers…
National Bowling Stadium, Reno
Visit Travel Nevada for more information on the Free-Range Art Highway.