Beaux Arts

SS15 daily roundup: Paris Day 2
By Dean Mayo Davies | Fashion | 27 June 2014
Above:

Dries Van Noten Fashion Show in Paris, Menswear Fashion Week, Collection Spring Summer 2015

Welcome to the HERO SS15 daily roundup – the most important shows, themes and concepts, contextually curated for your reading pleasure. The best place to understand the week’s events in fashion.

Show us someone who doesn’t get Dries Van Noten and we’ll tell you they’re not a fan of clothes. The  venerable Belgian mixes references with the ease that comes from over thirty years of design. Ease is key.

The most enduring of the Antwerp Six, a group of Antwerp Royal Academy graduates that included Ann Demeulemeester, Van Noten led us through a garden at the back of the Grand Palais, underground into a moody basement, amplified by claustrophobic lighting and cross catwalk formation.

To proper audio thump his models stomped in silk robes, scoop necks and Notenised ballet shoes. Clavicle and torso. In Milan, Bottega Veneta’s Thomas Maier touched upon Rudolf Nureyev – and today we got this designer’s take. Oh. That was the gothic cut-out letter ‘R’ in the invite.

Look 7

Dries Van Noten SS15: Look 7

Perhaps it was that unforgiving, repetitive soundtrack written for a dance piece by Belgian choreographer Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker in the 80s, which set a highly disciplined and psychological frame, but we couldn’t help but think of current dance rebel Sergei Polunin, not least because he is closer in age to Dries’ line-up. That is no bad thing.

For starters, there was a silk American football shirt in the mix. Van Noten is a designer that is always balancing contemporary with the classic. This collection, with its sensual mood and incredible casting, was up there in the designer’s long list of fine moments.

The dance off continues this season with Rick Owens, who showed at the Palais de Chaillot earlier, citing Nijinsky’s wicked Ballets Russes debut in 1912 for L’Après-Midi d’un Faune. In it, he masturbates on a scarf the nymph drops – which no doubt nourishes this designer’s equally wicked sense of humour.

Look 15

Rick Owens SS15: Look 15

Painting his models green, purple, white and trailing them in fabric which danced around the body, his latest Adidas collaborating of brutal, bouncy, blade-like boots gave his models spring in their step.

At Louis Vuitton, Men’s Style Director Kim Jones is on a never-ending journey – the perfect reason to invest in great luggage to hold all your stories.

SS15 took us to Rajasthan, the land of kings in the northwestern corner of India, offering Shisha mirrored embroidery with LV engraved mirrors with blue tone-on-tone highly textured embroidery and some neat MA-1s, particularly in shocking pink.

Louis Vuitton SS15 Look 28

Louis Vuitton SS15: Look 28

At 3.1 Phillip Lim, turned-in lapels, tunics and checks were order of the day. As well as a scaled up pinstripe, which, aside from denim, from its sheer popularity across the collections is set to be the fabric of the season.

Check out our roundups of Paris days onethreefour and five plus London and Milan.

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