The king of gothic romance is back. Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens has just announced that he is to inaugurate a brand new fashion house, Boloria. With the help of Willy Vanderperre, we already have some early previews of what to expect from Theyskens’ Boloria. The preview campaign features suits that are half-made, the needles and threads still visible, perhaps reflecting that the first collection is still a work in progress.

Theyskens has been lying low for the last couple years, but let’s remind ourselves of why this is such exciting news. Theyskens first burst onto the scene in the late 1990s, mostly thanks to Madonna. The singer turned up to several major events around the time of Ray of Light wearing outfits designed by Theyskens, who was in his early twenties at the time. Many of these looks, including the gothic-inspired butter-yellow dress that she wore to the 1998 VH1 Fashion Awards, have become some of Madonna’s most referenced outfits. What followed for Theyskens was an incredible run as the artistic director at Rochas, followed by a couple of years at Nina Ricci, and a stint as the head of Theory. In 2016, he launched his self-funded eponymous label, which solidified his status as a designers’ designer.

In a press release issued by Boloria, the new house is described as having “distinctly Belgian values – sensitivity, integrity, emotional resonance – that have always inspired Theyskens’ work and approach to fashion.”

Theyskens first collection for Boloria is expected in 2026.