It was a scorching edition of Pitti Uomo this season, with temperatures at Florence’s Fortezza da Basso hitting 35 degrees daily. But naturally, the heat didn’t stop the Pitti peacocks from strutting through the city in the meticulously planned outfits they’ve been perfecting for months. Reflecting a rising trend in menswear, this year’s fair, dubbed Pitti Bikes, leaned into cyclewear, featuring themed installations and even a bike race. On the grounds, brands like Guess Jeans, Bikkembergs, Ellesse, Rag & Bone, ICECREAM, and Kiton took over the central square with dedicated pavilions. Inside the convention space, heavy-hitters including Brunello Cucinelli, Stefano Ricci, Tatras, Paul & Shark, and Tiger of Sweden set up their usual spacious showrooms amongst hundreds of fellow menswear brands.

As we’ve seen over the past few editions of Pitti Uomo, there has been growing interest in brands coming out of China and Korea, with their presence at the fair this season being more visible than ever. Two major spaces, dubbed CODE Korea and China Wave respectively, showcased fifteen Eastern brands that proffered the best of Chinese and Korean menswear. Elsewhere, the Scandinavian Manifesto pavilion returned with its spotlight on Scandi designs, and the Superstyling pavilion showcased all the new kids on the menswear block.

Though Pitti Uomo runs for just four days, it can feel like an entire season’s worth of style packed into a single week. With that in mind, here’s a look back at some of the standout moments from this year’s fair.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake took centre stage

As the guest of honour at this year’s Pitti, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake took the chance to go all out. Bussing the world’s fashion press to a former Medici villa in the hills surrounding Florence, the show unfolded in the meticulously manicured gardens, which offered distant views of Brunelleschi’s iconic dome atop Florence Cathedral. The collection blended Italian tailoring with signature practicality, as Homme Plissé ventured into the realm of wide lapels and double-breasted jackets. Several standout coats added a playful twist: they could be folded into their own garment bags, complete with integrated hangers.

Read our full report of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s SS26 show here

Tommy Hilfiger himself presided over the Hilfiger Social Club

The Palazzo Portinari Salviati may be one of Florence’s grandest venues with its 500-year history and central atrium decorated with marble statuary, but during this Pitti Uomo the venue was all-American. Tommy Hilfiger, the giant of preppy fashion, chose the venue to launch a brand new line of elevated menswear looks called TOMMY HILFIGER New York. Mr. Hilfiger himself was present to introduce the nineteen-look collection, which was displayed on live models who mingled through the crowd.

In suitably Florentine fashion, Aperol Spritzes were poured by the jug-load as special guests such as Lucien Laviscount looked sharp in red, white and blue. In his own words, Mr. Hilfiger stated that “the art of dressing up is back. All of the most inspiring icons in culture today are embracing an elevated look […] That’s what we’re doing again today introducing a new chapter in our menswear story.”

Niccolò Pasqualetti debuted a multifunctional collection

LVMH Prize finalist Niccolò Pasqualetti presented their SS26 collection on a searingly hot morning in Florence. Thankfully, each guest found a hand fan waiting on their seat. A graduate of Central Saint Martins’ MA programme, Pasqualetti launched their eponymous label in 2021 and has been steadily rising in the fashion world thanks to their innovative designs that challenge not only traditional notions of gender, but also those of function and season.

A Tuscan native, Pasqualetti seemed right at home showing at Pitti Uomo. Their SS26 collection blended fabrics and silhouettes in unexpected ways, creating purposeful contradictions that felt genuinely fresh. Leather capes were styled with earthy, drawstring trousers; super-cropped vests appeared alongside lightweight suits. Many garments were worn loosely, some seemingly hanging off the models’ bodies. In the show notes, a line stood out: “What we wear should reflect reality, and allow us to be many different people at once.” It was a fitting summary of Pasqualetti’s multifunctional approach to clothing.

Guess Jeans showcased their West Coast-inspired collection

Guess Jeans have become a staple of Pitti Uomo in the last few seasons, ever since they unveiled their innovative Guess Airwash technology with a huge immersive exhibition at Pitti 105. This time round, the brand returned to showcase their SS26 collection in a specially designed showspace at the Fortezza da Basso.

The denim-blue installation, one of the largest at the fair, featured a clever visual concept: mirrors were arranged in a line with full looks displayed between them, creating the illusion of infinite outfits. The collection drew inspiration from the style and spirit of America’s West Coast, channelling sun-faded textures and a laid-back attitude. Full denim ensembles were paired with casual hoodies and clogs, while skater shorts were styled with formal loafers.

Brunello Cucinelli blurred lines

When it comes to Pitti Uomo, one brand consistently commands attention. Always in the prime spot on the lower ground floor, its showspace dwarfing every other around it, Brunello Cucinelli stands as the undisputed anchor of the fair. This season, that expansive space was dedicated to previewing the brand’s then-forthcoming SS26 collection, which was officially unveiled in Milan on the first day of Milan Fashion Week.

Blurring the distinction between formal and informal, the collection featured many surprises. One look consisted of a dusty orange blazer worn over a printed t-shirt, whilst another featured red shorts paired with a sports top – some extremely casual silhouettes from the master of Italian menswear. It was also notable how many autumnal shades were present throughout the collection, from that dusty orange to deep reds and a whole forest of browns. Is spring becoming the new autumn? Well, if Mr. Cucinelli says so, who are we to disagree?