Last night at Pitti Uomo in Florence, MM6 Maison Margiela revealed their latest collection — their first to focus exclusively on menswear. Taking place under the glass canopy of the Tepidarium del Roster, a huge glass and steel greenhouse that dates from the late 19th century, the standing-only show had a gig-like atmosphere with the clothes taking inspiration from the wardrobe of the great jazz musician Miles Davis and the 90s suiting of Brit Pop.

Prior to the runway, we were given rare access to the famously secretive MM6 team to find out some more about this landmark collection for the house, including what the team listened to when putting the collection together.

How does it feel to be a guest designer at Pitti Uomo?
“It is a real honour to be part of Pitti Uomo. We are thrilled to be following in the steps of other great brands and have this moment for MM6 Maison Margiela.”

What have been the main inspirations behind this new collection?
“We wanted to put the spotlight on the MM6 menswear wardrobe inspired by the American jazz musician Miles Davis, archetypal pieces of clothing that mix flamboyance with being able to be worn with everyday ease.”

Has Florence been an influence in any way?
“Of course, it will be our backdrop so it will have been infused with some Florentine elements. When we knew that we would be the guest designer, I read Venus in Furs, which comes through in the collection.”

Can you talk us through any new materials, styles or techniques that came about with this collection?
“It was really important for us to use a lot of different textures and not so much colour, which helped create a collection that would be easy to put together. Materials will create the feel of flamboyance and sensuality. We have used techniques on some of the silhouettes that are not often used in ready-to-wear but more in an industrial context like work glove rubberising, plastification of knitwear and gaffer tape.”

What is the dynamic like working as a design team?
“It is much like the way any fashion house works and for us, the key is anonymity bolstering our freedom of creation.”

What’s been playing on the studio stereo during the making of this collection?
“Very random music that I think most of the team would have rather not been hearing. We have also been listening to, as part of the soundscape, the audio of the American Bodybuilder Charles Atlas’s film Put More Blood into the Music from 1988.”

Read our full show report here.