Past, present, future

Feng Chen Wang on modernising ancient techniques and her upcoming FW25 collection
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 10 January 2025

Ever since founding her namesake brand in 2015, Feng Chen Wang has heralded one of the fastest growing brands in London. Having shown in both New York and London, Feng moved to the Paris Fashion Week schedule for SS23, and will show her upcoming FW25 collection there this month. Blending Chinese heritage and craftsmanship with deconstructed futuristic silhouettes, Feng often draws from her seaside hometown of Fuzhou and traditional Chinese art practises from her youth – elevated into innovative forms and fabrication. Preparing for her FW25 show, we caught up with Feng to discover what she has in store for this season — from elements of Eastern porcelain to innovative, futuristic fabrication.

GALLERYBackstage at Feng Chen Wang SS25

Barry Pierce: Can you take us through your inspirations behind your forthcoming FW25 collection?
Feng Chen Wang: The inspiration for this collection comes from a deep, nostalgic reflection on the intangible marks left by the passage of time. By integrating elements of Eastern porcelains rich cultural heritage, I explore the collision of history and modernity, tradition and innovation. Each piece re-examines and reinterprets time, memory, and culture, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary fabrics to tell a timeless story across space and time.

“I remember my first design experience when I designed clothes for my Sailor Moon dolls at the age of eight.”

BP: Are there new materials, styles or techniques youre working on?
FCW: In this collection, we boldly experimented with a fusion of traditional and modern materials. For example, fabrics in a celadon hue and delicate bamboo elements bring a deep, tranquil Eastern aesthetic to the overall design. At the same time, traditional techniques such as fish roe embroidery and handmade weaving create rich visual layers, breaking the boundaries of conventional materials and giving each piece a unique aesthetic that is both ancient and futuristic.

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BP: Do you remember the first piece you ever designed?
FCW: I remember my first design experience when I designed clothes for my Sailor Moon dolls at the age of eight. At that time, the design was full of fantasy and dreams, driven purely by a desire for beauty and selfexpression. Although my focus shifted from dolls to clothing, I still maintain thatdreamermindset. Design has always been a freeflowing expression of creativity and emotion.

BP: How do other artistic mediums filter into your work? We know you are a keen painter.
FCW: Painting was and still is one of my favourite art forms. I enjoy painting abstract forms or Chinese landscapes with watercolour as much as using the traditional Chinese brush, Mao Bi.

BP: How do these notions of handcraft influence your workthe uniqueness of this and the imperfection of creating by hand?
FCW: My approach shines a spotlight on Chinese heritage, traditional craftsmanship and native techniques practised for centuries. Fusing classic tailoring and silhouettes with my deconstructed aesthetic allows for multiwear garments, cementing the brand ethos ofto own less is to own more.’

“My approach shines a spotlight on Chinese heritage, traditional craftsmanship and native techniques practised for centuries.”

BP: Who are your design idols?
FCW: I am inspired by many designers, but the one I admire most is Rei Kawakubo. She has maintained enduring creativity while constantly challenging herself, demonstrating a steadfast strength that defies the passage of time. Her work always bridges the gap between tradition and modernity, which has deeply influenced my thoughts on cultural heritage and innovation. Designers who seamlessly blend history with the future shape my understanding and pursuit of fashion.

BP: Your use of lacquerware is really interesting, how did the technique evolve?
FCW: I looked first and foremost to bodiless lacquerware, a craft native to my hometown of Fuzhou, in Fujian province. Having been practised for over 700 years, the technique is widely considered one of the countrys most important folk art forms, and is immediately recognisable for its unique appearance. The emeraldgreen lacquerware effect transposes that galaxylike pattern onto jackets, shirts and shorts to a slightly psychedelic effect.

BP: What are you excited about in 2025?
FCW: We will be celebrating the brands 10th anniversary! 2025 marks a new chapter for us to look back at our core milestones ahead of project launches in the new year. We will explore our DNA deeply but will also be stepping out of our comfort zone with new categories for the brand.

Feng Chen Wang SS25 will be presented during Paris Fashion Week this month – stay tuned.

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