It’s that time of year again, when we ask our favourite chefs and eateries to talk us through their dream Christmas dinner party. This time it’s the turn of Four Legs, the team behind two excellent joints, The Plimsoll and Tollingtons Fish Bar – if-you-know-you-know. One’s in a classic boozer, the other a traditional fish shop, and both riff on traditional British grub with a delicious modern spin, maintaining the cosy, old-school atmosphere of both venues while serving fresh, innovative dishes such as deep fried devilled crab, pickled anchovies, scallops with chilli butter and peas, sardines with chilli, and their signature Dexter Burger. Masters of creating the optimal atmosphere for enjoying a good meal, we asked chef Ed McIlroy to close his eyes and think of Christmas. See his dream Christmas meal below.

The ideal dinner party location…

“There are too many places I love to while away time whilst eating and drinking to my heart’s content. Really they’re humble home tables, often not particularly dressed and food is served straight from its cooking pot. I spend all of my time in restaurants full of people enjoying the company of others, the tables I feel happiest at are the ones behind closed doors where lunches last for twelve hours and we hardly notice the food.”

“Starters comprised entirely of shellfish, even just piles of prawns would be fine…”

The ideal dinner party playlist…

“It depends, I think if I’m really imagining the table I’ve spent most time around eating with loved ones it’s still the one at my mum and dad’s. My dad knows what he likes, I often steal control of the speaker when I’m there but usually before dinner is ready the alien abstract breakbeat gets a bit much for him and I’ll head for safer ground, he loves the blues, and any Terry Brooks & Strange sort of thing suits him. I try to slip in a bit of dub just after pudding before the cheese. He has a vocal disdain for jazz, despite being a lover of the saxophone, but I’m working on it.”

“I try to slip in a bit of dub just after pudding before the cheese.”

The ideal dinner party guest…

“Cole Palmer.”

The best dishes to serve…

“Starters comprised entirely of shellfish, even just piles of prawns would be fine, delicious sweet things that require enough work to stop anyone from filling up and also awaken the senses for the good things coming. After that, very plain and simple meat and veg would be perfect. Just a good piece of beef cooked nicely, some potatoes that have had some thought put into them and some properly buttered and salted greens. If whoever is cooking was hoping to impress, maybe they’ll have made a proper sauce, if not just a little pan sauce situation would suffice if everything’s cooked properly. Dessert would be a steamed ginger pudding with custard, in particular if possible one made by Anna Tobias. I then would like some cheese, not much, just enough to pick at, something gentle with a little bit of fruit.”

The perfect drinks…

“To start, a Sidecar before the prawns. With the prawns, a bottle of extremely cold lager, a Pacifico ideally, and a bottle of red with main – nothing light and fruity, I like red wine that fills the sinuses and coats the mouth. Nothing with my dessert. Sweet sherry with my cheese and fruit, coffee and then brandy.”

The ideal Christmas cracker gift…

“Ten million pounds.”

Follow Four Legs on Instagram.