Pick ‘n’ mix

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Simone Rocha: ribbons, sailors and bustiers
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 25 January 2024

Ever since stepping down from his namesake house in 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier has used his slot at Paris Couture Week to let fellow designers produce an haute couture collection under the codes of his house. Chitose Abe of Sacai, Glenn Martens of Y/Project, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain, Haider Ackermann, and Julien Dossena of Rabanne have now all produced much-hyped haute couture collections for Jean Paul Gaultier and this season, it was the turn of Irish designer Simone Rocha.

The collection was a perfect blending of Rocha’s coquettish aesthetic with the iconic silhouettes of Gaultier. No look summed this up more than a sheer top which saw Gaultier’s iconic Breton strips dyed black and tied into Rocha’s classic bows. The sailor hat on top, reimagined in pearly silk, was another sleek transfiguration.

Elsewhere, Gaultier’s conical bustier made an appearance on a tailored look, matched with a petticoat skirt and hairy heels, as well as on a long, ruffled coat. Rocha’s pearls found themselves acting as fringes on sheer dresses and, interestingly, Masonic imagery made an appearance. Amelia Dimoldenberg and Kylie Jenner watched from the crowd as Alex Consani and Amelia Gray walked the show. At the end, Simone came out and ran towards Jean Paul, who embraced her amongst the applause.


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