Per Götesson is scrolling through his phone photo album, through hundreds of images of Barcelona locals going about their daily routine. Of streets, crowds, friends, lovers, joggers and thinkers. Taken when the Swedish-born, London-based designer first travelled to the Catalan capital to collaborate with newly-revived heritage 80s Spanish brand Armand Basi, this practice was a way of grounding his ideas to something current, something tangible. Observing the city’s mannerisms and personality – the people, the architecture, the lifestyle – Götesson found connections to his own work: notions of geometric design, a forward-thinking innovation, and an inherent easefulness and chill.

These street-level observations happened in conjunction with an extensive archive deepdive, exploring past images, garments and texts; through deconstructed, relaxed tailoring, vibrant knitwear graphics, evocative (and sometimes erotic) campaigns, subcultural tropes and an innovative meeting of casual and classicism. Alongside his partner and collaborator, Husam El Odeh, Götesson twists these references through his own to create a unisex collection that translates past to present.

Here, the iconic Illas (translation: islands) designed by Ildefons Cerdà that outline Barcelona’s uniformed street grids guide the collection’s sculptural blueprint, forming geometric shapes that are then deconstructed, relaxed and softened in harmony with the natural contours of the body. Zipped pockets and apron-style panels speak of utilitarian workwear – expanding Götesson’s ongoing exploration of functionality – and Armand Basi’s famed leathercraft is replaced by outerwear rendered in recycled rubber. Throughout, a new logo inspired by Barcelona’s Illas sees both brands’ initials form a square grid, and pseudo-barcode graphics are stamped across shirts. Jewellery expands the narrative: designed by Odeh, angular chestpieces decorate garments and references to manual tools create miniature sterling silver rulers, chain details and deconstructed visa headwear.

“There’s a lot of pride in being Catalan here in Barcelona,” says Götesson. “I wanted to channel that through the collection, whilst also looking to the unique architecture that shapes the city today. Armand Basi provided me with a blank canvas to interpret the brand’s archives in a way true to me and my work.”

Alex James Taylor: What was your starting point? Was there something in the Armand Basi archive that really ignited everything?
Per Götesson: I would definitely say it was the early collections from the late 80s, they had this space age-y but constructivist aesthetic that was really beautiful to me and a language I felt was particular to Barcelona. I also took loads of images of people just minding their business to ground my ideas into something current and tangible.

AJT: Your work has always been very forward-facing, how was it working with an established brand and using past references to form the blueprint?
PG: It was really about taking time to grasp the identity of Armand Basi and understand the heritage of the brand, as well as what it meant to be Catalonian and Barcelonaian. It was not until I had grasped this that I was able to fully envision something that was rooted in the brand but felt forward-looking. I guess we spent a lot of time doing groundwork on this collection.

AJT: Your work has always reflected the world around you, what did you take from Barcelona?
PG: Definitely the confidence people on the street exhibited, there is something very utopic and forward-looking about the city itself, which is built into the streets and blocks by Cerdà. I feel this has an effect on the residents here.

AJT: You also reference Mies van der Rohe’s architecture, particularly his Barcelona Pavilion – your design work has always been guided by shape and structure, how do van der Rohe’s principles resonate with you?
PG: The Pavilion was amazing to visit. I’m normally more eclectic in my style, but what I liked about the Pavilion is the sense of calm and warmth it gives once you’re inside.

The collection will be released in early 2024.
Shop Armand Basi.
Follow Per Götesson on Instagram.