Leather bound

Bulging crotches and erotic kink: Jonathan Anderson turns the Tom of Finland man into a RTW collection
By Alex James Taylor | Fashion | 11 June 2021

Last year Jonathan Anderson released a JW Anderson collaboration with Tom of Finland and it instantly sold out. Following that success, the Irish designer now brings a sophomore capsule that expands on those initial accessory drops with a selection of ready-to-wear pieces.

An untitled image by Finnish draughtsman Touko Laaksonen (aka Tom of Finland) leads the collection, depicting a ToF man in signature uniform – leather boots, gloves, cap and crotch piece – drawn across t-shirts, shirting, hoodies, bags and shorts. Penis keyrings and Cap bags complete the collection, fitted with kinky studs and piercings.

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“We had such a good time working on the first collection and working with the Foundation was a pleasure,” said Anderson about the second round of the capsule. “As a gay man and a designer, Tom of Finland has always fascinated me. I collect all types of art including his drawings. To be able to use them in a JW Anderson collection is so exciting. I am really proud of this year’s collection and love that we were able to expand it to include ready-to-wear.”

Jonathan Anderson’s fascination with Tom of Finland is clear: a true pioneer, Laaksonen went from being a captain in the Finnish army during WWII to beaking boundaries of art and pornography with his stylised hyper-masculine illustrations. Depicting macho men with bulging muscles and swollen appendages in skimpy leather military-inspired outfits, these characters had an invaluable influence on gay identity, subverting tropes of masculinity via uncompromising fetish and sleaze.

The Tom of Finland collection is available now in-stores and will be sold online from 14th June – plus, those who spend £250 or more at the JW Anderson flagship will get a free fifteen-inch tall Tom of Finland action figure. 

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